and then some
October 21st, 2009

a few bogs, some jesus, and the clatter of poets..

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© Simon Burch

When in Dublin a visit for any photographer must include the Gallery of Photography in Temple Bar but the current exhibition of Bangor photographer Simon Burch’s work on the peat bogs of Ireland had particular draw for me. I got there in the afternoon and the place was definitely busy and it was great to have to squeeze my way around the bookstore. An interest in photography alive and well in Ireland. Burch’s exhibition titled ‘Under a Grey Sky looks at a delicate landscape that has become heavily industrialized due to the cutting of turf for fuel. It includes some beautiful muted landscapes and portraits of people from local communities. At a time when the environment and talk of saving our natural heritage is everywhere it’s a timely show and an important one. The peat bogs of Ireland are a unique landscape and it was good to see this element of our landscape being explored by a photographer.

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Over at the National Photographic Archive gallery which is a stone’s throw from the gallery of photography, there’s a great exhibit of 1950’s and 60’s photos by photographer Elinor Wiltshire. The show called “If you ever go to Dublin town’ depicts street scenes of the Dublin of the era. Scenes from everyday life, children playing, all Ireland football fans, beachgoers at Sandymount strand. She also shot scenes of evictions of tenants from York St to the new developments which later became notorious for their own social ills, the Ballymun flats. Some of my favorite shots were of the Monaghan poet Patrick Kavanagh at this home in Iniskeen. Kavanagh a friend of Wiltshire’s, although one of the great Irish poets is often neglected visually and you’d hardly ever see a picture of him anywhere, whereas pictures of Joyce, Yeats etc would be almost permanently imprinted on our brains. Wiltshire who shot with a Rollieflex brought to her work a sensibility which reminded me of the type of work that Cartier Bresson became famous for. She had a great ability to recognize the value in the observation of the ‘everyday’.The National Photographic archive is part of the National Library and contains 630,000 images relating to Ireland and it’s past including important historical events as the 1916 rising. The library is currently in the process of digitizing the entire collection(many glass plate negatives) in an effort to get it all online thereby facilitating public access to the collection.

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Patrick Kavanagh at his home in Iniskeen © Elinor Wiltshire

Sticking with the National Library. There’s a fantastic exhibit of one of our greatest writers WB Yeats’ work and life on there. Now I never knew Yeats had an obsession with the occult, with getting married, that his wife was 20 years younger than him nor that Thoreau was one of his greatest influences. When I was in school he wasn’t my favorite but I have learned in my later years to have a deeper appreciation for his use of ‘flowery’ language which used not resonate with me.  It’s a beautiful exhibit with the Verse and Vision room being my favorite where you can listen to renditions of  some of his poetry being read by some well known Irish artists whilst images of nature appear on lightboxes. The online exhibit at the National Library site is notably good as well.

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Last but not least over at the Sebastian Guinness gallery is ever controversial American born David LaChapelle’s exhibit titled ‘American Jesus’. Now Chapelle is one of those artists I suppose we all love or hate. And being as this show has a particular religious bent mixed with Chapelle’s trademark tendency to lay on the kitsch and the bling he’s probably not going to garner a huge audience in Catholic Ireland. You never know though. Stranger things HAVE happened in Catholic Ireland. Anyway Chapelle is I think always worth checking out whether you believe or not like journalist Gerry McCarthy when he described Chapelle’s work in last week’s Sunday Times Culture magazine  as  a”brand of kitsch” having “passed it’s sell-by date”.

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The invite for Chapelle's Dublin show

Well with all the talk of cutting arts funding in Ireland and of cutting the artists tax exemption status we may be heading into miserable days for the cultural fabric of the country. Certainly when I went to a production of Frank McGuinness’s ‘Someone who’ll watch over me’ at the Garage theatre in Monaghan last month it would seem that most people couldn’t give a toss about the arts in their community. I think I counted oh about 18 people there. At 15 euros a pop it’s not cheap and I’ve been told ‘it’s the times that are in it’ meaning apparently nobody has any money. But on any given night out on the weekend the pubs are heaving. I’d say it’s less the times and more a case of what we choose to spend our money on. Anyway I’m not here too talk about the future of the arts in Ireland and how much we Irish are fond of the drink. We could write a book on  either of those subjects.  Just here the last few days in Dublin I managed to catch a couple of exhibits that fortunately would give one strong hope for the appreciation of the arts and it’s place within Irish culture. That said there’s no accounting for what the current administration will do to the arts when cuts that have been referred to as ’savage’ by a govt minister are announced in the December budget.

October 19th, 2009

Connemara returned

Connemara from Michelle McCarron on Vimeo.

18 years past and I find myself here once again. Connemara is a place of legends and wild rugged landscape. It is an environment of delicate peat bogs, lakes, stone walls, craggy peaks, sheep, and a sense of peace. There are few places more uniquely Irish than Connemara. In a country that has gone through (and continues to do so) profound social and economic upheavel one can still come here and get a sense of something above the rush of the cities and modern life. Connemara is not just a place it is a feeling. Situated in west County Galway the people there make a clear distinction between this place, themselves and the rest of Galway if not the rest of Ireland. You couldn’t fault them for doing so. It is wild, peaceful, magic and mysterious. But it can also be loud with the sound of wind blowing across it mountain tops, it’s people laughing and traditional music escaping from bars and halls. It is home to Connemara National Park and the Twelve Ben peaks in the Maumturk mountain range where you can hike for days with sheep watching your every move. The Glencoaghan Horseshoe is one of the best hikes I’ve done anywhere and is an Irish classic. Not to mention the Diamond Hill hike which is a great way to get your day started.

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It has forever been a hub for artists and writers for it’s easy to be inspired here. The main town of the area is Clifden and if you’re lucky enough to be in Connemara this week of October you’ll catch Clifden Arts Week where Irish Poet Laureate and Nobel Prize winner Seamus Heaney will be in attendance. Whilst in Clifden I had the pleasure and good ‘craic’ of strolling into the Lavelle Art Gallery where I met owner and himself a talented artist Gavin Lavelle. Gavin is a graduate of the National College of Art and Design in Dublin. We mused over the state of the art world in Ireland and I left laughing with promises to return to continue the conversation.  If you’re one for acommodations that strike at the heart of you and ooze with character I’d highly recommend the Old Monastery Hostel in Letterfrack.  Situated 35 paces from the National Park entrance. If you need to write a book, make decisions, or just be in a hospitable relaxed atmosphere you’d stay here.

This is a special place and a unique one. You won’t find the likes of it anywhere else. And that’s fact. The people who live there know it and when they say goodbye they do so with a cheeky smile because they know chances are you’ll be back. They wave with one hand and with the other they have a tight hold that lasts forever.

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A little techy moment now for all of you geeks. The video is shot with the new 5d Mark II and edited in Final Cut. The mark II presents it’s own challenges when it comes to editing it’s files and getting them into a format where I could edit natively in Final Cut but after much digging round the internet I worked a few things out.

October 1st, 2009

Berlin Reborn

On the morning of August 13th 1961 Berliners woke up to find their city divided by a wall that stretched for 29 miles. During it’s existence 5000 people tried to escape from the East and it’s estimated 239 died in doing so. Nov 9th this year will mark 20 years since the fall of the infamous Berlin wall. In early Sept I had an opportunity to visit Germany’s capital. A new Berlin part of a new and reunified Germany.

My memories of the period in 1989 when the wall came down are mostly those images that flashed across a television screen as part of enthralling news reporting from ITN. At 16 years of age a kid growing up in Ireland, the full meaning of the fall of communism across Europe did not register, yet I was fully aware of the historical significance of what was happening before my eyes. As so often is for a young adult the significance of events can very much be read by the reactions of the grown ups around you. Some being those sitting with me watching, the others being those on the  TV screen. Images of men and women smashing the wall with sledgehammers, hugging each other while tears rolled down their faces. Throngs of people pushing across a border in disbelief and fear of a clampdown that might once again thwart their efforts to escape from an oppressive regime.

My fascination with Berlin stems from these childhood memories as well as a desire to check out a city that is fast becoming (if it’s not already) the cultural and art capital of Europe. In recent years it has become a sought after destination for contemporary artists and it was time for me to go check out the rumors.

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The Brandenburg Gate, once a simple of division, now a symbol of a reunified nation.

Today parts of the wall still stand dotted across the city as relics to the past and for all those who come to see a part of history. Many of these pieces still bear the images that people chose to paint across a drab grey concrete wall that drove a barrier across their hearts and the heart of their city.

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The remnants real value lie in that are they are testament to just what this city and it’s people have overcome. I couldn’t help thinking that this is exactly what makes Berlin so vibrant. Here is a city that has been given a chance at a new lease of life and Berliners it seems are determined that they are going to make the most of it. It has always been a city where artists, scholars, academics have flocked so it’s cultural significance is not something new. The only difference now perhaps being that the city has a sense of really coming into it’s own after being completely devastated by the 2nd World War and then later divided by communism. Across the city much is facade for what is coming and it is true that the cranes across the city are almost as numerous as the famous landmarks that the city lays claim to. It is somewhat bizarre as you stroll the city when you realize that a lot of it is fake. A one dimensional graphic representation of the future propped up by webs of scaffolding.

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Yet for all the facade the architecture of Berlin was what grabbed my attention most about the city. It is truly a beautiful European capital. The first thing I noticed was it’s ‘openesss’ as regards the city’s architectural planning. Nowhere in the city did I feel like I was being enveloped by giant skyscrapers that blotted out the sky and dwarfed me on the street. I felt like I could breath and immediately I felt at ease. I liked this city a lot. From it periods of Romanticism, to the New Objectivity of the 20’s, the totalitarian of it’s Nazi style, the Utilitarianism that marks the old division between east and west to the explosion of contemporary building, it is a jewel in the history of architecture. It’s contemporary architecture design projects are some of the most forward thinking I’ve seen anywhere.

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The Berlin Philharmonic Hall designed by architect Hans Scharoun completed in 1963.

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The GSW building by architects Sauerbruch Hutton nominated for a Sterling Prize and noted worldwide for it's low energy and ecological sustainable design.

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The old and the new working in harmony. The neo romanesque Kaiser William memorial church by Franz Schwecten was destroyed in WWII. The new church a hexagonal tower was designed by Egon Eiermann.

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Old east Berlin apartment building.

Urban planning has left streets wide and most buildings low for what I suspect is a consideration for the healthy psyche of the people who work and live here. Tree lined streets are prevalent as well as a bike lane system and user demographic that would make San Francisco where I live look like the Mickey Mouseville of bike commuting. I saw no aggression between drivers and bikers, a common site in SF. Perhaps that has to do with the fact that Germans really do know how to drive. Hipsters were barely visible. Apparently Berliners don’t need to prove their coolness. They just are. Women put style into bike riding instead of just low riding skinny jeans that made them look like construction workers bending over at a building site. Traffic congestion is low and traffic flow efficient. The U Bahn and the S Bahn provide commuters with an extensive underground system that covers the entire city.

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9 percent of Germans commute by bike. In a city of 3.4 million people, 500,000 people ride bikes everyday. The city spends 3million euros($4.3 million dollars) every year on 600 km of bike paths and lanes.

In my short time and my curiosity of the Berlin art scene I only managed 2 gallery visits.  One to The Berlin Gallery and the other  to the New National Gallery. Unfortunaltely for me both of these galleries had large sections closed in preparation for upcoming exhibitons in time for the approaching 20 year anniversary. Yet operating on half mast both of these institutions managed to leave their mark. Both galleries The Berlinsche Galerie and the Neue Nationalgalerie as they are know to locals are both meccas for contemporary, modernist art lovers, the former concentrating on home grown art the latter more international in it’s scope. The National Gallery building designed by architect Mies Van Der Rohe is beautiful in it’s starkness and linear form with an overhanging roof of steel who’s strength of form isn’t fully appreciated until you approach and stand beneath it. I simply loved it. It was one of those structures that reminded me of why I love modern architecture.

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The New National Gallery.

It is not an exaggeration to say that the BilderTraume exhibit of mostly surrealist works currently at the National Gallery was easily one of the best exhibits I’ve seen anywhere. From a private collection it included work from Dali, Miro, Pollack, Picasso, Ernst, Magritte, Rivera, Tanguy to name a few. If you’re in Berlin I’d recommend making a point of seeing it.

From what I’ve read about Berlin since I’ve left there is of course division within it’s citizens about the ‘progress’ and the building blitz that has occurred in recent years. Gentrification that goes along with it is utterly transforming neighborhoods and there are stories of the poorer less central neighborhoods being ignored as far as investment in their upkeep. The movement of people is occurring now in the reverse direction from west to east because they can’t afford the price of progress. In the strongest economy in Europe everything still comes with a price. It remains to be seen just how well Berlin and perhaps Germany as a whole can cope with it’s past as it hurtles into the future.

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